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Paddler's Blog

Combat Rolling

May 14th, 2008

So it’s that time of year again.  The time when the weather is showing us a few more warm days, and the rivers are still full of water.  It’s also the time of year when head games can get the best of those trying to learn the elusive combat roll.  This article is all about conquering fears of rolling in whitewater and understanding which currents will help or hurt combat rolls.  So let’s pull out the gear from the tupperware and put it back into action.

Combat Rolling

 

First things first: get comfortable with the idea of hanging out upside down in cold water.  Dress warm, go to the local river and practice rolling.  Cold water is often a partial cause for the lifting-of-the-head syndrome.  Wear a head beanie and ear plugs and stay relaxed through that shock of hitting the water.  Relaxation helps to keep movements fluid and the head will be the last thing out of the water.  Just as studying for a test works best when the material is studied in the same place as the test, rolling works best when practiced in as close to actual conditions as possible.

 

Once your stationary roll becomes super consistent, then there is no need to practice it anymore.  It is time to work on ways to improve your combat roll.  Begin by targeting your biggest weaknesses.  Do you struggle with wave trains, holes, eddy lines, fear from rapids, shallow water, or just frustration?    

 

There are several ways to practice combat rolls in flatwater and whitewater.  The key to all the rolls is to control movements even though the water is trying to pull your body out of position.  The real key is to do the same roll that you practice on flatwater: relax, set-up, sweep and hip-snap, finish position and stabilization.

 

First start with your paddle pointing forward and flip with momentum.  Also paddle straight against some current, or downstream through a wave and then flip.  This will cause the water to try and pull you backwards and out of the tuck position.  If you practiced your sit-ups over the winter, hopefully it will pay off here.  In the river this sort of flip occurs when you hit a hole or wave and get pushed backwards.  It also occurs during enders.  Relax, tuck forward and towards the set-up side and roll - same advice as usual.  If you struggle with this roll try stationary rolls and flip with your paddle and body in non-setup contorted positions; practice unwinding underwater and go to your setup position. 

 

Another technique for rolling from the backseat, which happens in many reaction style flips, is called the back deck roll.  A back deck roll starts from the stern and ends up sitting forward at the finish. 

 

The next phase is to have a mean friend spin the bow of your boat away from your set-up.  The beginning of the roll is easier because the sweep stroke initiates from the spin.  The finish position will be harder, because the sweep will want to continue to the stern.  Don’t let it.  Sweep the same as without momentum - bow to hip.  Once you are comfortable with this go to an eddy line, spin on it in the direction you just practiced and then flip and roll.  You need to prevent the slight suction from the eddyline from pulling your front hand or body down and you need to maintain a smooth sweep across the surface of the water.

 

Now have a friend push your bow towards the set-up side.  It is really hard to maintain your set-up position during this drill.  Your options are to:

 

       Fight to maintain the setup and wait out the push. 

       Switch to the other side and do an offside roll. 

       Try one roll quickly and after it fails try a second one which might work because the spin is gone due to the first attempt.  This drill simulates flipping on an eddyline. 

 

Eddylines can be among the more challenging places to roll, and first roll attempts sometimes fail here even with very solid rolls.  Perfect practice makes perfect so for sloppy rolls turn down the force until it looks pretty.  For good rolls crank up the current until it’s a challenge!

 

Next have the same helper push your boat in the center on the same side that you are set up on.  The helper will need long arms to reach over your setup paddle.  The more practice you get rolling with the boat moving around the more comfortable you will be.  This drill is helpful because it brings you up to the surface on your setup side.  This is very similar to rolling on the downstream side of a hole.  Do it.  It is also similar to rolling on the downstream side after peeling out from an eddy.  Do it.  Choose non-shallow areas in the current and, Do it.  If you struggle with this, go back to working on the stationary roll and remember: practice, practice, practice.

 

The next step is to have your helper push in the middle of your kayak on the side opposite from the set-up side.  Unlike the last helpful roll, this one is a beast.  Ask somebody how hard it is to roll on their upstream side in a hole, and they’ll probably say impossible.  That’s this drill.  Your options here are to:

 

       Go to the other side and try an offside roll on the downstream side.  If that fails go back to trying the onside. 

       Try to take an underwater sweep / forward stroke to spin the boat to the onside and then roll. 

       Try and roll.  Even if it fails it might spin the boat enough that the second one will work. 

       After trying many attempts, swim.  This is always an option.  We are all in between swims.  Accept this as a fact, and again know that this is a hard drill.  This is also very similar to being upside down and broached on a rock.  When  trying these in current pick a weak but deep hole and a very non-undercut rock.  Less then Class I current will suffice. 

 

Now for an easier drill:  have a friend push up and down on the bow or stern or both.  They should let go when they feel you start to hip snap.  This simulates rolling in a wave train.  Timing can be important; try to roll when the bow is high, not the stern and fight to stay in the set-up position.  In an actual wave train, rebalancing is important, so at the end of the roll you should bring your weight aggressively forward to stabilize the boat and then take a forward stroke.  Also in a wave train it is often easiest to roll on the downstream side of the wave.  This is one time that waiting in the set-up until you feel the wave break over your boat can help.  In most other combat rolling situations rolling quickly is the way to go.  Find wave trains with no obstructions downstream to practice this.

 

Shallow water can be frightening, but it can actually make rolling easier.  Trust in your protective tuck.  The mistake people often make is to try and use the river bottom.  Just because it’s there doesn’t mean it stays in one spot.  Diving the paddle to the bottom can easily result in a broken paddle and hurt shoulders.  It is safer to roll on the upstream side when in shallow water, but this is often not a choice.  Think about rolling the same as in flatwater - keep the paddle sweeping on the surface with no resistance.  If the paddle happens to hit something it will probably give you an extra advantage.  If you try to use the bottom it will likely force your upper body out of the water and it won’t work.  Keep relaxed, don’t waste time, roll quickly and smoothly.

 

Frustration is one of the biggest barriers to rolling.  There’s not too much to say about it except that you need to recognize its onset and take a break from practicing rolls until you can relax underwater again.  Kayaking is all about the enjoyment of the sport; don’t let rolling slow that enjoyment down.  It is plenty of fun with or without a roll.  Rolling will come with practice and time in the saddle, so don’t give up on it.  Practice with different instructors.   Some instructors will work better for you than others.  Remember that it is just plain difficult to roll in some situations.  Practice drills that make rolling easy, build up confidence gradually, and start with very mild currents. 

 

Once you develop a solid combat roll your confidence will grow, and you’ll be able to push your skill limits.  There is no better feeling than when it clicks and feels solid.  Have fun developing a bombproof roll! 

 

Jim

What’s up

March 20th, 2008

Rivers are starting to run around here with the melting snow and the rains we’re having.  Here are a few local runs that we like to catch:

 Cold River (class IV(V)) - it was at 0 on the state forest gage this afternoon.  This is low but runnable.

Cold River FallsCold River below the falls

Cold River Cold River Gage

The Chickley (class III) is also at a low/medium level:

Chickley above bridgeChickley from bridgeChickley below bridge

Pelham Brook (class V) is scratchable, but barely:

Pelham BrookPelham Brook above bridgePelham Brook Flowerpot

Here’s Zoar Gap:

Zoar Gap

And here are a couple of deer that were out looking for food under all the snow:

Deer along the roadDeer along the river

Enjoy and feel free to give us a call if you’re wondering whether one of these is running!

- Bruce

5-College Outdoor Festival March 2008

March 14th, 2008

The 5-college Outdoor Festival brings students and community members together to celebrate the great outdoors and have a bit of fun while doing it.  For the past 7 years Zoar Outdoor has brought a trailer full of boats and instructors to assist anyone interested in finding out more about the sport and this year the pool was busy!
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Our instructors, Bruce, Cory, Brian, Elaine, Dennis, Hillary and I, were available for instruction and boat demos.  Everyone participated, from total beginners just learning how to be comfortable in a kayak to experienced paddlers learning to cartwheel.   Most people were there to sharpen their rolls or get coaching on more advanced moves.  It was great to have a variety of kayaks and canoes to try in one place.  What great fun!  Some folks actually stayed for 6 hours, so I guess if you’re not outside enjoying the snow you might as well be in a warm pool tossing ends watching the snow fall outside.   There was much giggling and a number of “ah ha” moments. 
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Although the weather forecast was for cold, Friday night’s keynote speaker, pro-boater  Anna Levesque, got a warm reception from the audience.  Her presentation “Kitchen Girl to Girls at Play!” chronicled her life actually making a living doing what she loves.  She entertained the audience with many stories of her journey from working in a kitchen to building her company ‘Girls at Play’.  She also showed photos from her travels to Mexico, Ecuador, New Zealand, Australia, Costa Rica, and Spain.  
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Saturday’s events culminated with MountainFilm, America’s premier touring film festival, from the Telluride MountainFilm Festival which celebrates the outdoors and mountain adventures. The tour “combines adventure, mountaineering, unique personalities and important environmental and social messages” into a presentation geared toward an audience with broad interests.  

This year’s event held special meaning for many of us. The goal was to help raise awareness, support and donations to fight Ovarian Cancer and support the HERA Cancer Connection and the Kathy Kyker-Snowman Outdoor Leadership Fund for Women.    

For thirty years, Kathy Kyker-Snowman devoted her professional life to inspiring students of all ages to discover their strengths through energetic outdoor adventuring. Kathy was known for her enthusiasm, her welcoming smile and acceptance of others without judgment, her perpetual devotion to learning and teaching others, her physical strength and fearlessness and skilled and joyful ability to lead.
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At just 52 Kathy lost her vibrant life to cancer, and outdoor education lost an exemplary leader. In her memory, a fund was started by Kathy’s family, friends and associates to keep her spirit alive. The fund provides grants to support young women outdoor leaders in their efforts to enhance their professional skills. The fund is open to women who are students at the 5 Colleges or Greenfield Community College, who have demonstrated interest in teaching in the outdoors.

I am excited to announce that $30,000 has been raised for the HERA Cancer Connection and the Kathy Kyker-Snowman Outdoor Leadership Fund for Women.   

If you are interested in finding out more or if you want to donate, please contact either Bob Garmirian or Glenna Alderson at Hampshire College, 413-549-4600
Enjoy Life and giggle whenever possible.
Janet Burnett Cowie - Director of Instruction Programs, Zoar Outdoor
 

 

The Webbing Belt by Jim Sullivan

February 4th, 2008

The Webbing Belt

An effective rescue needs all the right tools, knowledge and experience.  While learning how to use the equipment in a river rescue course is critical to being an effective rescuer, there are a few key pieces of gear that can make your job easier and safer.  Among these, one that is most often overlooked is a piece of one inch tubular webbing.  20 feet is generally about the right length for most uses and can be tied in a loop and worn as a belt attached by a locking carabiner in front. 

Jim Sullivan's web belt

Here are just a few uses for the webbing belt:

An anchor for z-drags and pinned boats
     There are many objects alongside a river that can be used to make an anchor.  Live trees that are at least six inches in diameter can be wrapped with webbing to make a great anchor.  Also keep an eye out for large boulders or cracks between boulders that webbing could pass around or through.  A knot made in webbing can also be chocked into a narrowing crack to create another anchor point. 

     There are a number of different ways to attach webbing to an anchor but the main goal is the same: create a strong anchor.  The anchor should not budge with a strong push or pull.  Anchors and webbing may need to sustain large forces, often over a thousand pounds of pressure with a mechanical advantage rescue.  Tying webbing to the base of the anchor provides the strongest support.  In some situations a higher anchor point will change the angle of pull on a pinned object.  Keeping the carabiners off the anchor and suspended in the air prevents cross loading on them which could cause failure. 

     Both ends of a tensioned system can be anchored with webbing.  When dealing with a pinned boat its best not to attach carabiners directly to grab loops.  Doing so can result in broken carabiners or grab loops that could pop off and go flying if under tension. Instead, tie webbing or a prussik loop around the seat or grab loops of a pinned boat to reduce the risk of overstressing the system.  Multiple anchor points can also reduce the stress on each point, creating a stronger system.  A climbing course or river rescue course is a good place to learn techniques to attach webbing to multiple parts of a shoreline or boat.

A zip line for quick river crossings
     A zip line allows many paddlers to cross a river very quickly.  To set up a zip line first throw a rope across the current that needs to be crossed.  Walk one end farther downstream, and then anchor both sides.  Now attach a carabiner to a piece of webbing and clip this to the upstream side of the throw rope that is across the current.  Anybody can then lay on their back holding the webbing and the current will slide them down the rope and across the river.  A retrieval line can be attached to the carabiner so multiple people will be able to use the zip line using a single carabiner and piece of webbing.  Attach the retrieval line to the carabiner and webbing and then pull the carabiner and webbing back after each person slides across.

A hand line for difficult scouts
     Scouting a rapid can often be more treacherous then running the rapid.  Many injuries happen to paddlers from slips and falls on shore while scouting.  On a steep shoreline you can use webbing to set up a hand line for additional support in a particularly slippery area.  To do this, have the first boater across the slope attach one end of the webbing to an anchor and then carefully traverse horizontally to another anchor.  After the leader has secured the webbing to the second anchor, other group members will be able to use the webbing to cross more easily.  A harness in conjunction with a hand line can allow a paddler to be clipped into the webbing and climb hands-free in a treacherous area.  This can also allow paddlers to be anchored in for throw bag tosses.

A harness
     Learning to make a quick harness out of webbing can be useful in a difficult shoreline rescue.  Before you use this technique in a real rescue situation, it’s important to understand that this is essentially a climbing technique since you may be supporting your entire body weight on the harness.  This technique should be done with the same level of care and training that all climbing involves. 
To make a basic webbing harness, also known as a “Swiss Seat”, first tie two leg loops into the middle of a twenty foot strand of webbing with the loops about six inches apart from each other.  Then step into the leg loops.  Wrap the side strands all the way behind your back and then up to the front.  Feed the side strands through the front area that comes down the legs and then back to the same side all the way behind your back again.  Bring them around your back to the front and tie off the waist portion with a square knot backed up with an overhand knot on each side. 
A correctly tied webbing harness with leg loops and a waist belt is suitable for vertical to overhanging terrain.  A waist belt might be all that is needed for a steep shoreline rescue.

A six handled litter
     In an evacuation situation a twenty foot strand of webbing can make a convenient six handled litter.  This is not suitable for a patient with a potential spine injury, but works well when this is not a concern. 

     To make the litter start with the webbing tied into a large loop; then make two twists and spread it out on the ground.  It should look like two figure eights, or three spots to hold onto on each side.  For more support or stability add paddles or branches.  Pad the litter to help keep the patient more comfortable.

A flip line for rafts
     If a raft flips, attach webbing to one side and throw it over the top of the raft.  Then the rescuer can go on top of the upside down raft.  They will hold the webbing and lean back until the raft flips back over.  Fall into a back flop to avoid your feet hitting the ground.  Using the same technique, a second swimmer can get pulled into the raft as it gets righted by using a second webbing line.  The rescuer climbs on top of the upside down raft and begins to right it.  The second swimmer waits in the water until the raft is pulled about vertical.  Then as the raft begins to fall they will hold onto the webbing and get pulled out of the water and into the raft.  They can then help the first rescuer back in the raft.

A quick short reach device
     Webbing can be used as a throw rope for someone that is a short distance away.  Throw bags have the potential of getting stuck in rapids and can become an added danger.  If extra distance isn’t needed a piece of extended webbing may reach a troubled paddler with less risk of getting stuck.  An added benefit is that webbing can be put away much more quickly afterwards.

A tow tether
     A tow tether is a great addition to a rescue vest but usually must be purchased separately.  It is a short piece of webbing or bungeed webbing that can help tow boats.  The tow tether is great because the boat is attached to the vest but can be quickly released if needed.  Having it attached to the vest allows the paddler to maneuver more easily.  It works best when the kayak being rescued is emptied out so that it will pull easily through the water.  A webbing shoulder sling also works for towing boats.  For a shoulder sling have the webbing in a large loop and attach one end to the boat.  Then drape the other end over your shoulder.  Never tie into an object that is being towed, because of the risk of capsizing or getting pulled toward a hazard.  Always look downstream before towing to ensure that you won’t be pulled into another rapid, dragged around the wrong side of a rock or sucked into any other river hazard.

For dragging a boat
     For long portages it is often easier to drag a plastic whitewater kayak than it is to carry it.  Boats that are heavily loaded with gear are also sometimes too heavy to pick up, so they must be dragged.  Dragging works well on inactive railroads and surfaces that aren’t too abrasive.  The surface also determines how difficult it will be to drag your boat.  Avoid dragging boats on pavement and rocks that are like pavement since these can quickly wear away a kayak.  To drag a boat, attach your webbing strap to the grab loop on one end, and connect the other end to the puller’s waist.  Padding around the waist helps for long walks.

A way to keep the kayak near the shore
     Exiting from a kayak onto shore can sometimes be a tricky proposition when there are swirly currents.  One way to prevent the boat from floating downstream is to attach a piece of webbing to it and hold onto the other end.  This way the boat will be controlled during the exit on the way up the shoreline.  It is embarrassing to have a kayak run a rapid without you.

An extra step to get back in rafts or canoes
     Secure webbing to a thwart and then tie a loop about one foot into the water.  Then use the loop as a step to assist the swimmer out of the water and back into the right side up raft or canoe.

The top of a shelter
     To create a makeshift shelter, tie up some webbing like a clothesline and then drape a tarp or a bunch of branches over it.  Use rocks, paddles, webbing, forest items and other tools that are often carried while paddling to create a unique shelter that suits the predicament.  Shelters are great for a nice break on the river, or planned / unplanned overnight stays.

So, don’t leave the webbing at home on your next paddling venture.  Practice using it during a river rescue course, climbing course or wilderness medical training.  Also, practice rescue techniques with the group of friends that you paddle with.  Treat it like a valued piece of gear.  Keep river rescue gear up to date and check it periodically for weakness.  UV sunrays reduce the strength of webbing the fastest.  Replace it anytime it looks sun damaged, worn, torn or has lasted more than four years.  Have fun on the river.             

The Flat Water Loop

January 30th, 2008

The flat-water loop is the most impressive flat-water trick to be done in a kayak. It may seem well beyond reach but with a little perseverance and understanding of the key ingredients you may be surprised to see just how accessible looping can be.

First, stack everything in your favor. Get a short and stubby boat like a Ronin, Project or All-Star, for these will give the most volume for the “pop” you will need and all have a short stern to pull through the water on the landing. Next use the lowest feather paddle that you feel comfortable with. While it is possible to loop with a high feather it is harder, try 30 degrees or less. The final addition, which can help enormously, is an overthruster, be it homemade, from IR, or even a beach ball, all will work. This will sit the kayak a little higher in the bow stall and give you more volume to work with. So that’s the gear, now on with the move.

1. Establish a bow stall with both blades power face up and wrists rolled forward. Start bouncing by pushing down on the paddle gently with your arms and lean slightly forward. As you reach the peak of the bounce change pressure on the paddle and pull up on the power faces. Try to exert equal pressure on each blade, as this will stop you from loosing balance and give you more power. While pulling your boat into the water stand on your toes to push the kayak further into the water. This puts more of the volume underwater and will give you a larger pop. Take your time getting the right bounce, as rushing this will land you on your face.

2. Once you have pulled the boat into the water, and you know you have a good bounce, roll your wrists back to release the paddle. Now the boat will start to accelerate out of the water with you still standing on your toes with you torso sitting up.

When the boat pops out of the water reach up to the sky with you paddle and wait for the boat to reach the peak of the bounce. For really large flat loops it helps to look up aggressively, guiding your body up and out with your eyes rather than just forward.

3. As you reach the peak of the bounce start reaching out as well as up to set up the arc for the kayak to follow. While you are reaching out start the tuck forward to continue the arc and reach to the water by your toes. This will launch the seat of your kayak over your body and into the air and set you up for the snap. During this motion you are trying to land on your back. This ensures that you have the maximum range of motion to snap the kayak around and the least amount of water to pull you body through at the end of the loop.

Typically this is where the twisting happens during an attempt, as there is a tendency to throw on shoulder across the deck putting the kayak off axis. To stop this, concentrate on planting both hands in the water.

4. The snap needs to happen quickly and decisively, the moment your shoulders hit the water you should be kicking you heels over your head. This is a strong motion so a moment later you will feel the stern of the boat hit the water, push your heels through this and start pushing your body back into the water.

At this point it is common to push back over your head with both blades, but this will leave your shoulders exposed and will slow the recovery down. Instead slice one blade out of the water in front of your face and push the other blade over your shoulder with a bent elbow while sitting up straight. Once you are upright, flat and smiling like a Cheshire cat, start throwing as many as energy will allow. Try them on eddy lines, off rocks, over kayaks and off diving boards.

Enjoy,

Fergus Coffey

Here’s a video of how to do it:

 

West River release dates for spring 2008

January 30th, 2008

Kayaking on the west

I was out of the office today, but checked my emails to find a letter from the Corps saying that the spring release on the West River would be April 26 and 27 rather than April 12 and 13 as they had previously indicated.  They also seem to indicate that the May release, which they had led us to believe was a possibility at our meeting in the fall, is not going to happen. The history of this change is that we heard through the AMC’s Corps release coordinator (a volunteer) that the Corps was making noise about moving the spring release date earlier in April due to some new data on salmon spawning showing that the late release date was causing the salmon to delay too long at the reservoir and possibly reducing their success in reaching the ocean in time.

There was a meeting in the late fall at which the Corps was pretty strong about saying the release date was going to change no matter what and we’d better just get on board. At the time, we proposed an additional spring release on May 10, because their data seemed to indicate this would not be harmful to the fish. They said they would take it into consideration and get back to us soon. They delayed and delayed and we emailed and emailed until we finally had to publish something in our brochure and on our website, so we published the dates we requested based on indications from the Corps about when a release would be acceptable.

Now they are saying that the release will be right back on the same weekend as in previous years for 2008. In their letter laying out the schedule for this year, they also indicate that for 2009 the West release will be before the 15th of April or after the 1st of May (if they can pond enough water for it after the reservoir level restriction is lifted on May 1). 

The Corps has acted this way for years - blowing off the boaters and using the inertia of their bureaucracy to stonewall any efforts we have made at changing their policies.

Bruce Lessels

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